Toilet Repair and Replacement
Toilet installation and replacement
Installing a toilet means setting the bowl on the floor flange with a new wax or waxless seal, bolting it down level, connecting the supply and testing for leaks at the base and tank. Before buying, measure the rough-in, the distance from the finished wall to the center of the floor bolts, because the new toilet has to match it.
- Independent licensed local plumbers
- The plumber gives you a price before work starts
- Free referral, no obligation
Most replacement toilets fit a 12-inch rough-in, but older homes also have 10-inch and 14-inch layouts, and a toilet bought for the wrong one will not sit against the wall or will not fit at all. Bowl shape matters too: an elongated bowl is longer than a round one and can block a door or crowd a small bathroom.
The part of the job you cannot see in the store is the flange. If the old toilet rocked or leaked at the base, the flange may be cracked, corroded or sitting below a new tile floor, and the subfloor around it may be soft. A careful installer inspects it with the old toilet off and tells you before setting the new one.
When you need toilet installation
- The bowl or tank is cracked
- The toilet clogs often and is an older, weak-flushing model
- Repair parts for the fill or flush valve are no longer available
- The base leaks and the porcelain or flange is damaged
- You are remodeling, or want a taller or more efficient toilet
How it is done and the choices involved
- 1
Flush volume
Federal standards cap new toilets at 1.6 gallons per flush, and WaterSense-labeled models use 1.28 or less while meeting a tested performance standard. Some states require the lower figure.
- 2
Height and bowl shape
Chair-height bowls sit a couple of inches taller than standard and are easier on knees. Elongated bowls are more comfortable for most adults; round bowls save space.
- 3
One-piece, two-piece or wall-hung
Two-piece toilets are the common, economical choice. One-piece models are easier to clean. Wall-hung toilets need an in-wall carrier and are a remodel-level job.
- 4
Flange and shutoff
The installer checks flange height and condition, replaces the seal and bolts, and usually replaces an old supply line and a shutoff valve that no longer turns.
What affects the cost of toilet installation
Prices vary by market and job. The pro gives you a price before starting; these factors drive it.
- The toilet you choose
- Flange repair or a spacer if the floor height has changed
- Subfloor damage found under the old toilet
- Replacing the shutoff valve and supply line
- Disposal of the old toilet
- Moving the drain location, which is a much larger job
Toilet Installation FAQ
How do I measure the rough-in for a new toilet?
Measure from the finished wall behind the toilet, not the baseboard, to the center of the bolts that hold the toilet to the floor. About 12 inches is standard. Measurements near 10 or 14 inches mean you need a toilet made for that rough-in.
Should I repair or replace my toilet?
Flappers, fill valves, handles and wax rings are inexpensive repairs worth doing. Replace the toilet when the porcelain is cracked, when it clogs constantly because of its design, or when several parts are failing on a very old unit.
How long does it take to install a toilet?
A like-for-like replacement on a sound flange is typically a short visit of about one to two hours. Flange repair, subfloor work or a seized shutoff valve adds time.
Why is my new toilet rocking?
The floor is uneven or the flange sits too high. A rocking toilet will break its seal and leak. It should be shimmed solid and then caulked around the base, not tightened down harder, which can crack the porcelain.
Sources
- Residential toilets, US EPA WaterSense
Part of toilet repair and replacement
Toilet Installation is one job within toilet repair and replacement. The main page covers the warning signs, the full process and what you can safely do yourself.
Need help with toilet installation?
Call (833) 520-4758 to reach an available local pro.